Types of Necklines in Women's Clothing Part 2 - Collars, Revers & Lapels

A collar encircles the neck and frames the neck. Collars may be developed close to or away from the neckline. They may be wide, narrow, flat, or high and with or with out an attached stand. The collar edge may be stylized or may follow a basic shape. I t may be round, curved, scalloped, square or pointed in any direction. A collar is different from revers or lapels where, as it is made from a separate piece of fabric, rather than a folded or cut part of the same piece of fabric used for the main body of the garment. 

Types of Collar- Collars can be broadly categorized as:

• Standing or Standup- fitting up around the neck and not lying around the shoulders.
• Turnover- standing around the neck and then folded or rolled over.
• Flat or Falling- lying on the shoulders

Some specific collar styles include:

Basic Shirt collar- This collar is most commonly seen in formirts formal shirts for men.

Various parts of the collar are

1.  Collar Points - The tips of the collar.

2.  Collar Point Length – The distance from the Collar Points to where they meet the Collar Band.

3.  Collar Band- the piece of fabric that wraps around the neck.

4.  Collar Height- The height of a folded collar as it fits on the neck.

5.  Tie Space – The distance between the top of the folded collar parts when the shirt is buttoned.

6.  Spread – The distance between Collar Points.

Ascot collar- It is a very tall standing collar with the points turned up over the chin, to be worn with an Ascot tie.

Victorian Bertha collar- A Bertha collar is a wide, round, flat, cape-like collar fitted to a low scooping neckline, designed to accent a woman's shoulders. It has a long history stretching back to Victorian fashion. It can be worn as an accessory to a dress or a top, and it is sometimes removable like a shawl. It was adapted in the 1940s but generally attached to a V-neckline. Over the years, the Bertha collar, sometimes called a cape collar because of its size, has morphed into an actual cape. Often made of lace or with frilly accents, the cape collar can be easily removed to transition from day time to evening wear. It can also be worn as an accessory for many different outfits.Square collars and Peter Pan collars evolved from this trend.

Peter Pan collar- It is a is a flat, round-cornered clothing collar and is particularly associated with little girls' dresses..

Chelsea collar- A woman's collar for a low V-neckline, with a stand and long points, popular in the 1960s and 1970s.

Fichu Collar- It is an oversized collar. The collar employs a triangular piece draped over the shoulders and is styled like an 18th century fichu, a large neckerchief folded into a triangular shape and worn with the point in the back and the front corners tied over the chest.

Imperial/Poke collar- It is a stiff standing collar for men's formal wear, differentiated from other tall styles by the lack of tabs at the front.

Band collar- is a standing band-shaped collar that encircles the neck without a full turndown or a collar "cape". It can be any height or "stand", but is usually under 2" at the front, so as not to push up into the chin. Variations of the Band Collar are: Clerical Collar, Mandarin Collar and Cadet Collar.

Mandarin or Chinese collar- It is a short unfolded stand-up collar style on a shirt or jacket. Mandarin collars start at the neckline and typically rise vertically two to five centimeters.

Sailor collar- It is a collar with a deep V-neck in front, no stand, and a square back, based on traditional sailor's uniforms.


Jabot collar- It is a standing collar with a pleated, ruffled, or lace-trimmed frill down the front.

Collaret- A collaret is a collar provided with pleats or puckers.

A revers or rever is a garment or part of a garmeJacket lapels are the folded flaps of cloth on the front of a jacket or coat, and are most commonly found on formal clothing and suit jackets.nt that is reversed to display the lining or facing outside.

Lapels are the folded flaps of cloth on the front of a jacket or coat, and are most commonly found on formal clothing and suit jackets.

Types of Lapels-There are three basic forms of lapels: notched, peaked and shawl. 

• Notched lapels,also known as step lapels or step collar, are the most common, are usually seen on business suit jackets, sports jackets,blazers. They are sewn to collar at an angle, creating a step effect. A small notch is called a fishmouth.
• Peaked lapels, also known as pointed lapels, are more formal, and nearly always used on double breasted jackets or coats.
• Shawl lapels (or roll collars) are usually carried by dinner jackets. It is a continuous curve.
• Traditional Indian jackets, like Nehru jackets, Achkans or Sherwanis dont have lapels. Rather they have Chinese/Mandarin collars. This "Bandh Gale ka Coat" has been popular since the 1940s.

Types of Necklines in Women's Clothing Part 1

The neckline is the top edge of a garment that surrounds the neck, especially from the front view. Neckline also refers to the overall line between all the layers of clothing and the neck and shoulders of a person, ignoring the unseen undergarments.

Necklines can be grouped into categories according to their shape and where they cut across the body:

Polo or Turtle Neck

These are high, close-fitting collars that fold over and wrap around the neck itself. They are also called turtlenecks.They make the torso appear elongated, accentuate the bust and shorten the neck.They are most common for sweaters (also called jumpers) or jerseys. 

Polo neck shirt with collar.

Cowl Neckline

This is a loose fitting turnover collar (specially at the front) which hangs down.

Crew Neck or Jewel Neckline 

Its a round neckline that sits at the base of the neck and is also called the T-shirt neckline. This type of neckline is suggested for women with smaller chests.

Scoop Neckline

These have a curved U shape, with the arms of the U hanging on the shoulders. The depth of the U can vary, ranging from demure styles to plunging. This type of neckline works for most figures.

V-neckline

This is formed by two diagonal lines from the shoulders that meet on the chest creating a V shape. The depth of the V can vary, ranging from demure styles to plunging. This neckline lengthens the neck. A wide "V" makes shoulders look broader and a narrow "V" does the opposite. The surplice & portrait versions of this neckline  are alternatives. The V may also be truncated by a small bottom edge, forming a trapezoid.

Square Neckline

This is characterized by three linear edges, the bottom edge meeting the side edges at right angles. The bottom edge cuts across the figure horizontally and the side edges pass over the shoulders. A special case of this is the slot neckline, in which the side edges are very close (roughly the width of the collar-bone points), forming a narrow slot.

Deep or Plunging Neckline

This is a low necklines, in either V, U or square shape, that reveals various amounts of cleavage.

Boat Neckline (Bateau or Sabrina)

This neckline has a high, wide, slightly curved neckline that pass past the collarbones and hang on both shoulders. This neckline shows off the collar bones, makes the shoulders appear broader, accentuates the bust, gives roundness to the face, elongates the torso and shortens the appearance of the neck. It is also called Bateau neckline or Sabrina neckline. 

Portrait Neckline

It is a variation of the boat neck or off-the-shoulder.In this the fabric is folded in a shawl like manner, which frames the shoulders. It is suggested for short waisted women with well defined collar bones and fuller arms.

Off-the-shoulders

This is similar to boat neckline but is significantly lower, below the shoulders and collar bone. Usually these pass over the arms but, in the strapless neckline style, may pass under the arms. These necklines accentuate the shoulders and neck of the wearer. 

Strapless

As the name suggests, there are no straps. Here the fabric passes under the arms. This is suggested for women who are full figures, are petite or have an hourglass figure. Should be avoided bu women with smaller chests.

One-shoulder

This is an asymmetrical linear neckline that cuts across the torso diagonally, usually from one shoulder to under the other arm.

 

Halter Neckline

This is a sleeveless style which features a V-neck or scoop front neckline with straps which wrap around and connect at the nape of the neck and leaves the shoulders (and sometimes the back) bare. This is suggested for short waisted or broad shouldered women.

Sweetheart Neckline

This has a curved bottom edge over the bust line that is concave down and usually doubly scalloped to resemble the top half of a heart. The side edges often converge on the neck, similar to halter necklines. Sweetheart neckline accentuates the bosom. 

Queen Anne Neckline

This type of neckline has a high standing collar in the back and high sides that curve down in a low, open sweetheart-like neckline.

Keyhole Neckline

This is similar to halter neckline, but the converging diagonal lines meet in front of the neck, forming a "keyhole". More generally, this features a central hole, usually just below the collar bones. This neckline is seen infrequently.

Surplice Neckline

This neckline is sometimes thought of as a "faux wrap" style which creates a deep "V". It is similar to how a bathrobe's neckline is formed by one side of the garment overlapping the other. For a dress, the lower layer is usually sewn to the top layer just under the bust.

Styling Features in Apparel

Silhouettes
Necklines
Collars
Waistlines and Waistbands
Sleeves
Cuffs
Yokes
Pleats
Pockets
Plackets