Wednesday, November 9, 2011

Types of Necklines in Women's Clothing Part 2 - Collars, Revers & Lapels

A collar encircles the neck and frames the neck. Collars may be developed close to or away from the neckline. They may be wide, narrow, flat, or high and with or with out an attached stand. The collar edge may be stylized or may follow a basic shape. I t may be round, curved, scalloped, square or pointed in any direction. A collar is different from revers or lapels where, as it is made from a separate piece of fabric, rather than a folded or cut part of the same piece of fabric used for the main body of the garment. 


Types of CollarCollars can be broadly categorized as:
  • Standing or Standup- fitting up around the neck and not lying around the shoulders.
  • Turnover- standing around the neck and then folded or rolled over.
  • Flat or Falling- lying on the shoulders

Some specific collar styles include:
Basic Shirt collar- This collar is most commonly seen in formirts formal shirts for men.

Various parts of the collar are


1.  Collar Points - The tips of the collar.

2.  Collar Point Length – The distance from the Collar Points to where they meet the Collar Band.
3.  Collar Band- the piece of fabric that wraps around the neck.
4.  Collar Height- The height of a folded collar as it fits on the neck.
5.  Tie Space – The distance between the top of the folded collar parts when the shirt is buttoned.
6.  Spread – The distance between Collar Points.



Ascot collar- It is a very tall standing collar with the points turned up over the chin, to be worn with an Ascot tie.

Victorian Bertha collarA Bertha collar is a wide, round, flat, cape-like collar fitted to a low scooping neckline, designed to accent a woman's shoulders. It has a long history stretching back to Victorian fashion. It can be worn as an accessory to a dress or a top, and it is sometimes removable like a shawl. It was adapted in the 1940s but generally attached to a V-neckline. Over the years, the Bertha collar, sometimes called a cape collar because of its size, has morphed into an actual cape. Often made of lace or with frilly accents, the cape collar can be easily removed to transition from day time to evening wear. It can also be worn as an accessory for many different outfits.Square collars and Peter Pan collars evolved from this trend.


Peter Pan collar- It is a is a flat, round-cornered clothing collar and is particularly associated with little girls' dresses..


Chelsea collar- A woman's collar for a low V-neckline, with a stand and long points, popular in the 1960s and 1970s.


Fichu Collar- It is an oversized collar. The collar employs a triangular piece draped over the shoulders and is styled like an 18th century fichu, a large neckerchief folded into a triangular shape and worn with the point in the back and the front corners tied over the chest.

Imperial/Poke collar- It is a stiff standing collar for men's formal wear, differentiated from other tall styles by the lack of tabs at the front.

Band collaris a standing band-shaped collar that encircles the neck without a full turndown or a collar "cape". It can be any height or "stand", but is usually under 2" at the front, so as not to push up into the chin. Variations of the Band Collar are: Clerical CollarMandarin Collar and Cadet Collar.

Mandarin or Chinese collar- It is a short unfolded stand-up collar style on a shirt or jacket. Mandarin collars start at the neckline and typically rise vertically two to five centimeters.

Sailor collar- It is a collar with a deep V-neck in front, no stand, and a square back, based on traditional sailor's uniforms.


Jabot collar- It is a standing collar with a pleatedruffled, or lace-trimmed frill down the front.



Collaret- A collaret is a collar provided with pleats or puckers.


revers or rever is a garment or part of a garmeJacket lapels are the folded flaps of cloth on the front of a jacket or coat, and are most commonly found on formal clothing and suit jackets.nt that is reversed to display the lining or facing outside.


Lapels are the folded flaps of cloth on the front of a jacket or coat, and are most commonly found on formal clothing and suit jackets.
Types of Lapels-There are three basic forms of lapels: notched, peaked and shawl. 
  • Notched lapels,also known as step lapels or step collar, are the most common, are usually seen on business suit jackets, sports jackets,blazers. They are sewn to collar at an angle, creating a step effect. A small notch is called a fishmouth.
  • Peaked lapels, also known as pointed lapels, are more formal, and nearly always used on double breasted jackets or coats.
  • Shawl lapels (or roll collars) are usually carried by dinner jackets. It is a continuous curve.
  • Traditional Indian jackets, like Nehru jackets, Achkans or Sherwanis dont have lapels. Rather they have Chinese/Mandarin collars. This "Bandh Gale ka Coat" has been popular since the 1940s.


No comments:

Post a Comment