Monday, April 2, 2012

Indian Sarees

Introduction
Saree is one of the oldest garments in the world and has been in style for the past 5000 years. Over the centuries, it has evolved in many ways. Not only have the designs evolved but also the methods of draping and usage, weaving/ manufacturing techniques, etc. 

Saree Design and Structure
It is a long rectangular piece of unstitched cloth, generally five to six yards (some of them are nine yards too), worn mostly by women in India. It is generally worn over a petticoat (like an underskirt) and teamed with a tight fitting blouse or a choli (like a bodice). The loose end of the Saree usually has more designs (buttis, embroidery, prints , etc.) than rest of the body of the Saree. This part of the Saree is called pallu (a throw), generally thrown over the shoulder either ways. The bottom of the saree is always lines, irrespective of having a border, to prevent wear and tear. This is known as fall. 

Types of Sarees
Sarees in India are of varied types and have diverse ways of draping. They can be broadly classified into Contemporary and Traditional categories according to their art styles and type of manufacturing.

Traditional Sarees
Traditional sarees can be further classified into the work or craft. Every region in India has  its own style of weiving/embroidery ahich have developed over time. Traditional sarees/crafts can be classified according to the regions they belong to.




Punjab - Phulkari
Phulkari Embroidered Saree
Uttar Pradesh- Banarasi , Lucknow Chikankari 
Banarasi Brocade Saree


Lucknavi Chikankari Embroidered Saree
West Bengal- Kantha Stitch, Taant, Batik, Jamdani, Tangail, Rajshahi, Dhaniakhali, Murshidabad Silk, Baluchari , Dacca Muslin
Kantha Embroidered Saree
Batik Printed Saree


Assam- Tassar silk, mekhla chadar, Muga silk

Orissa- Bomkai, Ikkat
Ikkat Saree

Bomkai Saree


Bihar- Bhagalpuri Silk, Madhubani
Bhagalpuri Silk Saree


Madhya Pradesh- Chanderi, Maheshwari, Vafta
Chanderi Saree


Rajasthan- Leheria, Bandhani, Kota Doria, Bagru Printed
Bandhej Saree


Gujarat- Ajrak, Patola, Kutch Embroidery, Gharchola


Maharashtra- Paithani, Pitamber

Karnataka- Mysore silk, Molakalmuru Silk, Ilkal



Andhra Pradesh- Mangalgiri, Narayanpet, Ponchampally, Gadwal, Guntur, Venkatgiri, Iklal, Uppada, Dharmavaram
Mangalgiri Cotton Saree


Tamil Nadu- Kanchipuram, Chettinad, Konrad, Coimbatore, Kanchi, Madurai, Kumbakonam, Mundum Neriyathum, Sungri, Arani

Kerala- Kasavu


Contemporary Sarees 
Contemporary sarees or fashion sarees are majorly made of synthetic materials like Georgettes, Chiffons, Crepes, Nets, Satins etc. Various types of printing, embroidery (machine), patchwork, etc. are done for value addition. Surat, Pali are the major manufacturing hubs for these sarees. 
Lehenga Saree


Lately there have been modifications in the saree to make draping hassle free. Prestitched sarees, popularly known as lehenga sarees, have become popular party wear attire.